Trends
The Face of 2023
Tighten, brighten, lift.
When it comes to putting their best face forward, beauty editors in the know (along with celebs from Kelly Ripa to fashionista Olivia Palermo) keep one man on speed dial: Robert Anolik, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at the Laser and Skin Surgery Center of New York.
Dr. Anolik is not only a master at injectables and lasers, he’s at the forefront of research into the newest technologies. We stepped into his Kips Bay treatment room to discover the latest in tightening, brightening, and lifting.
DP: What new treatments are you excited about?
“There are a number of breakthroughs, from procedures that take skin-tightening to the next level to a new FDA-approved filler that can lift and define the jawline. We’ve done extensive research and we can now safely do a number of these treatments in one visit, which gets better results and minimizes downtime. That’s relatively new and people are taking advantage of it.”
DP: Back up, did you say there’s a new treatment for the jawline? Spill!
“The FDA recently approved the filler Juvederm Voluma VOLUX™ XC for the jawline. It’s a strong, moldable form of hyaluronic acid that we can place right at the angle of the jaw as well as above it. It lifts and shapes everything, and the results last up to a year.”
DP: What are some of the secret fixes people are coming in for?
“Lately, we’re seeing people who have lost a lot of weight from Ozempic, which can leave your face looking haggard. We’re using fillers in non-traditional, off-label areas to fill in the temples, which will support the cheeks, mask any gauntness, and make you look more youthful.”
Okay, not all of us have lost weight. What if your face is too full?
“People who have full faces often worry that adding filler will heighten the problem, but actually we can use filler to give shape to the face, create planes, and make you look slimmer.”
DP: Let’s get to those new skin-tightening technologies. What’s the latest?
“A new treatment, Ellacor, allows us to target much deeper collagen fibers to tighten and shrink skin by approximately 5 to 10%. First, we fully numb the skin with a cream and inject lidocaine as a nerve block around the mouth and into the cheek. Then we take a handheld device that has numerous very fine needles that puncture the skin to a depth of a few millimeters. On the other side of the needle, there is a vacuum that assists in pulling those little plugs of skin out. As the skin heals around it, the surface of the skin shrinks. It doesn’t leave a scar, but you will look pink about a week following the treatment. While the results are long-lasting, you might need more than one treatment about a month apart, depending on your skin.”
DP: It seems like micro-needling is having a resurgence.
“Yes, but we have found that micro-needling alone is not enough for real results. You need to have some other energy device and heat to stimulate collagen production over a period of months so skin continues to tighten. I tend to favor some of the stronger options like the Infini Genius and tailor the treatment to each person, whether it’s acne scars or deep creases. After a local anesthetic is applied, radiofrequency energy is delivered deep into dermal layers via micro-channels. The downtime is just a few days of redness and the results—brighter, tighter skin—can last up to a year.”
DP: I want results but I have zero downtime. Any new options?
“We have a new, non-invasive ultrasound technology, Sofwave, that works for mild skin laxity on the face and neck, and has also been recently approved to lift the brow. It uses ultrasound beam technology to heat just beneath the surface of the skin. Like other treatments, this spurs collagen growth so skin will continue to tighten over a period of months. There’s no downtime and results can last up to a year.”
DP: What’s on the horizon?
“Cosmetic dermatologists are pioneering laser-assisted filler delivery for greater impact on lines and creases. We use a laser to resurface the skin and then apply a very diluted form of filler like Sculptra topically to sink into the holes to stimulate a stronger collagen response. It’s a great treatment for lines above the lips, by the way.”
Lead photo by George Karger via Getty Images
